History
Suomenlinna, a group of islands off the coast of Helsinki, is a maritime fortress whose history dates back to 1748 and spans three distinct eras: Swedish, Russian, and Finnish.
Throughout its first era, Sweden had lost its key fortress in its wars with Russia, so it was crucial to build eastern defenses in Finland. This led the Swedish Parliament to decide in 1747 to construct a fortress with a naval base in Helsinki, and work began the following year. The fortress, initially named Sveaborg, was a work in progress for about 40 years, during which plans had to be scaled down. In the end, the fortress was never fully completed as originally envisioned.
In 1808, the fortress was surrendered to Russian forces, thus beginning the Russian era of Sveaborg. At this time, while Finland was an autonomous Grand Duchy of Russia, the fortress, along with its ships and equipment, remained a military base under Russian administration. The beginning of the Russian era was a time of expansion; the fortress perimeter was expanded, and barracks for soldiers and an Orthodox church were built. Through the 1800s and early 1900s, the fortress witnessed several wars, a mutiny, and periods of decline and disrepair.
Then in 1918, when Finland was finally an independent country, the fortress was transferred to the Finnish government and renamed Suomenlinna (‘Castle of Finland’). During the Finnish era, the fortress continued to serve military purposes, including during the Winter War and Continuation War. It later shifted to civilian administration, and buildings were converted to residential use. Over time, Suomenlinna underwent renovations and became an increasingly popular tourist destination.
Today, Suomenlinna is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a major Finnish tourist attraction, and home to about 800 residents.
Visiting Suomenlinna Sea Fortress
Off the coast of Helsinki, in the Gulf of Finland, sits Suomenlinna – a beautiful sea fortress spread across several islands and rich in history and memorable views. Here, travelers can explore the historic stone fortifications, walk through mazes of tunnels, visit fascinating museums, support local artists, and relax in quaint cafes. Whether visiting Helsinki for a day or a week, Suomenlinna is a site that should not be missed because it truly is a unique adventure.
Why Suomenlinna? History enthusiasts will enjoy the fortifications, museums, and churches. The trails, coastal views, and abundance of wildlife are perfect for those who enjoy nature and photography. Travelers looking for a place to relax and contemplate life are greeted with peaceful gardens and quiet spots along the shoreline.
I had the opportunity to explore Suomenlinna with my parents during our trip to Helsinki and it was a special experience. Despite the gloomy, rainy weather, we still had a great time meandering through the islands, checking out the fortifications, museums, and shops before stopping for lunch. My previous three trips to Europe were all about palaces, museums, and city tours, so it was wonderful getting to experience something not only different but also mainly outdoors.
Your adventure to Suomenlinna begins with a short ferry ride that departs from a pier near the Kauppatori (Outdoor Market). This ferry is part of Helsinki’s public transportation network (HSL), and passengers must buy a ticket that includes Zone A. Tickets can be purchased at the pier (for the trip over), at Suomenlinna (for the return journey), or on the official HSL app. For our visit, I purchased the tickets in person and had no issues finding the departure point, since there is a giant sign that says “Suomenlinna – Sveaborg”.
Check the HSL website for the most up-to-date information on ticket validity periods.
The ferry has two decks; the bottom deck offers indoor seating only, while the top deck has both indoor seating and outdoor standing room towards the front and back of the boat. There is no assigned seating, so when boarding, passengers can head to their preferred spot for the ride. The journey is about 15 minutes long, and even in inclement weather, our ride was smoother than expected.
When you arrive at Suomenlinna, you can either stop by the Visitor Center to see a few exhibits and grab a map, or go straight through the archway under the clock tower and start your journey. To find your way around the islands, you do not need Google Maps or a compass – just follow the Blue Route. This route is approximately 0.93 miles/1.5 kilometers (one-way), leads visitors to the main sites, and is marked by blue signs on posts along the way. These blue signs show both the attraction name and the distance.
Since Suomenlinna is primarily an outdoor experience, visitors should keep several factors in mind. First, the Blue Route is mostly gravel and cobblestone, with several steep, hilly sections. I highly recommend wearing sturdy shoes with non-slip soles, especially on rainy days, because the stones can get very slick. Also, some sections of the trail have minimal coverage, and you are exposed to the elements, so depending on the weather, bring a hat and sunscreen, a windproof rain jacket, or an insulated coat.
Given the nature of the trails, navigating Suomenlinna can be challenging for those using a wheelchair or other mobility aid. Some areas have a path that runs parallel to the Blue Route, which is more even and easier to navigate.
Visiting Suomenlinna can be a full-day experience not only because there is so much to see, but also because of the walking distances along the Blue Route and throughout the islands. As I shared, the Blue Route measures around 0.93 miles/1.5 kilometers (one-way), and that doesn’t include the extra walking involved in exploring places such as King’s Gate and Piper’s Garden or visiting one of the museums. My family spent about 5 hours in Suomenlinna, and in that time we checked out the Visitor Center, went to the Suomenlinna Museum and Suomenlinna Church, explored Kustaanmiekka and King’s Gate, wandered through several tunnels, shopped at some local artsy stores, and enjoyed lunch at Cafe Piper.
During the summer, a water bus stops at King’s Gate (the end point of the Blue Route), eliminating the need to return to the ferry pier.
Suomenlinna Sites
These are two of the sites my family visited during our time in Suomenlinna.
Suomenlinna Museum
Suomenlinna Museum, located a short walk from the visitor center, is a small museum that shares the fortress’s history and the lives of its inhabitants. It features a series of exhibits displayed across two floors and an interesting film, “Suomenlinna Experience”, that provides an in-depth look at the island’s history. The film runs for 25 minutes, and the exhibits take approximately 25 to 30 minutes to explore.
We visited this museum on a Monday morning, and there were only a few other guests. You can buy tickets in person or online, and discounts are available for certain age groups. Note that the gift store inside Suomenlinna Museum is a great place to stock up on local, unique souvenirs.
For the film, the museum provides audio guides with narration in several languages.
Suomenlinna Church
Suomenlinna Church is a simple Lutheran church not far from the main ferry pier. Dating back to 1854, it initially served as an Orthodox garrison church, and it prominently featured the characteristic onion domes common in Orthodox churches. During renovations, the main onion cupola was removed and replaced with a traditional church tower. Today, Suomenlinna Church serves as a parish church and a lighthouse.
Our visit to Suomenlinna Church took about 20 minutes since the church is rather small, and the temporary exhibit consisted of just a few storyboards. There is also an interesting model of what the original structure looked like.
Visitors need to pay a small admission fee to enter the church.
Suomenlinna Dining
Suomenlinna is home to several restaurants, giving visitors the opportunity to relax and recharge while exploring the islands. These eateries range from sit-down restaurants to cozy cafes, some open year-round and others seasonal.
My family stopped at Café Piper for lunch and coffee, and it became one of the highlights of our time in Suomenlinna. Located next to Piper’s Park, a lovely garden, this café offers lunch specials, sweet treats, and beverages. It also has an outdoor dining area with great harbor views. (Visit my Helsinki dining guide for more information).
Exploring Suomenlinna
At King’s Gate and other locations throughout Suomenlinna, visitors can channel their inner explorer as they walk through the tunnels and enjoy the views from the lookouts.
The official map of Suomenlinna notes the locations of both the tunnels and the artillery positions.
Wildlife in Suomenlinna
As I shared earlier in the guide, Suomenlinna has abundant wildlife, which adds to its beauty. We visited in June, and there were so many baby animals, especially ducklings and goslings.
Resources
Visit the official Suomenlinna website for more information on visiting this UNESCO World Heritage site.
Leave a Comment